Updates: Songkran (2/3)

After the blazing midday sun loosened its fiery grip on the city, Nina and I decided to make our way to Wat Pho (Reclining Buddha temple). I wasn't quite sure what to expect, as there is very little English information available on the Internet on Songkran festivities. I was lucky to stumble across a site which outlined a skeleton schedule for this year's events. All I knew was that I was curious to see the religious face of Songkran. Nina was brave enough to venture out into the escalated madness of the 'Water War' that was ravaging the streets (despite having just had her hair straightened and warned not to get it wet!) Together we embarked on our journey of discovery and found a haven of peace and tranquility.
Within this holy sanctuary shared with families and monks, we delved into a world steeped in simple traditions. The second day of Songkran is considered to be an auspicious day when everyone cleanses their souls and avoids acts and words deemed uncompassionate or aggressive.

We experienced three rituals:
1. Making merit is an important concept of Thai Buddhism, trying to ensure a fortunate reincarnation. In the spirit of thankfulness, most teenagers ordain as monks for 3 months to make merit for their parents as a token of appreciation and love. In the temple, merit making activities included offering food, flowers, joss sticks, candles and other basic necessities to monks, making donations, burning incense or lighting candles before images of the Buddha, and chanting protective or merit-making verses from the Pali Canon (Buddhist Bible).

2. The underlying significance of Songkran is the process of cleansing and purification - the purging of all ills, misfortune and evil and starting the New Year afresh with all that is good and pure. Water is symbolic of the cleaning process and signifies purity. I really enjoyed observing the Buddha Bathing Ritual in which lustral water with rose petals is poured mindfully over rows of various golden Buddha, glistening in the warm sun, perched on a bed of colourful, vibrant flowers. This is a gesture of respect and reverence, seeking blessings, and forgiveness for past wrong-doings is also implied.

3. Thai people traditionally carry sand to the temples for the building of sand pagodas/stupas which are then decorated with colourful flags and flowers. The practice reflects an ancient belief that when an individual walks away from a temple, particles of sand from the temple grounds are inadvertently carried away on one's shoes or sandals. The building of sand stupas for the temple is seen to be a practical way of replacing the sand lost and a merit-making act through which blessings are earned. People also donate flags which are believed to bring luck and considered as a revered offering to the temple.

It was so beautiful to witness and take part in some of these rituals, the whole place was enveloped in a spiritual aura, embracing all of our souls. We spoke to several people, all eager to share their day with us. Much to our amusement, entire families requested to take photographs with us 'farangs' – we became quite a popular attraction that I am sure the event organisers hadn't counted on. It seemed only fair to me… after all, there I was trying to discretely capture their religious moments on camera.

A blessing from a monk, a visit to see the Reclining Buddha inside the temple and a simple meal (50 cents) from one of the stands, led to the settling of dusk. People had already packed away their wares and stalls by the time we left.
We strolled aimlessly around the streets, passing war-torn stragglers, tired soldiers with ghostly floured faces and drenched clothing. We happened upon a cultural show (again only locals) where we savoured the delights of different Songkran traditions from each province – food, dances, costumes, handicrafts, rituals, Thai boxing, sword fighting – a medley of impressions.
A few hours later, content and exhausted, we made our way home.

The following day marked the Thai New Year (April 15). Nina and I decided to leave the city and visit a cultural park (The Ancient City in Samut Prakan), unaware we would be joining a grand exodus of half of Bangkok.
This is the most important day of the Songkran New Year celebrations. It is a time for individuals to reflect upon the many acts of kindness and thoughtfulness each has personally experienced and to remember how such acts of generosity and compassion bring peace, happiness and well-being. Hence, most choose to spend this day with their loved ones, being a day for reunions and renewing family ties. The government organises various forms of entertainment as a way of keeping regional Songkran traditions alive and preserving culturally unique beliefs and practises. Not a moment's "sanuk" was to be missed - vivid colours, song and dance and festive fun was the order of the day.

Bangkok seemed to have formed an alliance with the locals of this town, and with renewed forces, began a fresh onslaught of water attacks. Weary, soaked with culture (and water) we pleaded for a cease fire. However, there was no abating their enthusiasm! So, happy, filled with good food, empty batteries in my camera, laden with images of laughter and fun filled activities, we plodded towards the exit.
Retreat! We surrender…

check out the vids (copy/paste the links)
http://www.dailymotion.com/footprint-s/video/x1q750_buddhist-temple-ceremonies/1
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1q3ag_faces-of-songkran